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Bernina sewing machines are among the best in the business. They are made in Germany and are high quality. They are incredible for amateurs since they are so natural to utilize. They are likewise cherished by ace sewers in light of the fact that the innovation is stunning.

They include sewing machines with shading touch screens, access to the web and elements that are wild. From weaving to fundamental stitching, the Bernina sewing machines are truly outstanding available today.

Individuals who utilize these machines love the simplicity. Notwithstanding for those sewing masters out there, a Bernina enables you to make more activities considerably quicker.

You can even utilize this machine to sew on patches. You simply need to put the catch on the piece of clothing anyplace you need it to go and you let your Bernina do the rest. The sewing machine will choose what measure sewing and what estimate opening you require naturally. You can take a load off in light of the fact that this essentially does all the sewing for you!

Many individuals cherish Bernina sewing machines on the grounds that regardless of to what extent you have them, they appear to last and last and last. This is critical in light of the fact that it spares you a considerable measure of cash over the long haul that you would have regularly spent on substitution machines or repairs. Regardless of whether you are a learner or a characteristic, the Bernina mark makes it simple to make extends that you will love.

Not certain which model to get? All things considered, first you have to decide the amount you will be utilizing it. On the off chance that you are just going to use the machine, as a rule, you won’t require the most costly one.

Before the innovation of the sewing machine, all dress, home decorations and even farming sacks were sewn by hand. The arrangement of occasions and developments that prompted what we perceive today as a sewing machine were an essential piece of history. Here is a review of some the creators, their commitments and how we at long last made reality the fantasy of a machine that could remove the work from sewing.

The main individual to apply for a patent for a sewing machine was a British innovator named Thomas Saint in 1791, however, his machine was not known to have at any point been produced. The principal genuine working sewing machine to be displayed all things considered to the world was in 1814 by an Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger, albeit no evidently working machine is thought to have originated from his work.

In 1830 Barthelemy Thimonnier from France protected a working machine that was equipped for sewing straight creases with a chain fastened. By 1841 he had a processing plant of these machines yet it was professedly disrupted and torched by French tailors, they were accounted for to have seen the presence of these machines as a risk to their occupations as opposed to the important work apparatus that the sewing machine became. Thimonnier, in the long run, came to England with a machine and was evidently the primary individual to offer working machines available to be purchased, he additionally ran a piece of clothing industrial facility.

An American Walter Hunt concocted the primary lockstitch sewing machine in 1833. This machine utilized 2 spools of string with an eye guided needle comparable toward machines of today, however, the machine required resetting over and over again to be reasonable. Another American, John Greenough, created a working machine in which the needle went totally through the material yet was not able to produce enough enthusiasm to deliver the machine for resale.

Elias Howe made a machine like that made by Walter Hunt in 1845. There were various upgrades which made his machine the most practical yet despite the fact that he attempted to increase money related support. In the wake of endeavoring to offer his machine in England, he comes back to the US to discover bunches of individuals had taken his thought and delivering comparative machines that evidently encroached his patent.

Isaac Merritt Singer was a specialist who chose to update the revolving sewing machine. His machine utilized a flying transport rather than a revolving one; the needle was mounted vertically and incorporated a presser foot to hold the material set up. It had a settled arm to hold the needle and furthermore incorporated an essential tensioning framework. Vocalist got an American patent for his machine in 1851, he built up a foot pedal or treadle, for use with his machines. Howe took Singer and a couple of others to court over patent ruptures and was granted some remuneration.

A fascinating reality, on the off chance that you discover these things intriguing, is that the principal employ buy sort installment plot is accounted for to have first been achieved by Singer and a legal advisor named Edward Clark, and was realized keeping in mind the end goal to enable individuals to bear to purchase their sewing machines. The achievement of the Singer sewing machines has a tendency to be ascribed more to the business methods utilized by Singer and Clark, as opposed to anything exceptionally unique with their machines.

Throughout the years other individuals and associations brought enhancements and made more machines. There were more than a couple of quarrels about licenses and dangers to sue. Allen B Wilson and Nathaniel Wheeler made a calmer smoother machine under the Wheeler and Wilson Company fabricating machines in the 60s. As more individuals entered the plan and creation of sewing machines ‘The Sewing Machine War’ came to fruition as everybody attempted to secure their own particular licensed innovation, in the long run Singer, Howe, Wheeler and Wilson and Grove and Baker met up with their licenses shaping ‘The Sewing Machine Combination’ in 1856. This constrained alternate makers to do things their way and pay a permit charge for the benefit.

Weaving machines were first observed in 1877 as a knit machine, this was developed by a Joseph Merrow. This machine was in reality the primary ‘overlock’ sewing machine and The Merrow Machine Company still deliver overlock machines today.

In 1885 Singer licensed the ‘Vocalist Vibrating Shuttle’ sewing machine utilizing Allen B Wilson vibrating transport, this machine was more adjust at lockstitching, supplanting the wavering transports and proceeding with use till the rotating transport machines supplanted them.

Electric sewing machines were entirely created in 1889 by the Singer Sewing Co. Up until the point that this point they had proceeded on the attempted and tried plan with simply more embellishment. Electric engines were stuck in favor of the old machines to begin with, yet discovered their way into the case turning into a characteristic piece of the machine.

Looking for information on Bernina Sewing Machines?

Here you will be able to find suppliers and information on all types of Bernina Sewing Machines to make using a Bernina Sewing Machine a fun and rewarding experience whether you are a beginner or a seasoned professional.

Today’s sewing machines are truly amazing in design and technology. Having a good sewing machine is a must whether you are a beginner or seasoned pro. Bernina is a world leader in sewing and these come in a range of styles and models to choose from.

Here are the editor’s top picks after reviewing many different Bernina Sewing Machines. From the latest technology and value, these are sure to give you the right sewing machine for your specific needs.

Bernina 950 Flatbed Zigzag Professional Sewing Machine: This Swiss designed machine is a top of the line professional model for the serious user. Of all the Bernina sewing machines, this one is for industrial as well as home use and will give you incredible results. The feature list on this jewel is extensive but we will go through a few of the important ones: Sewing speed up to 2,000 stitches a minute, 5 needle positions, all metal industrial hook, locked in needle bar, built in darning device and bobbin winder, universal tension setting. Includes buttonhole, darning, zig-zag and utility stitching. Many more features make this Bernina sewing machine a machine that will give you many years of service with no worries.

Bernina Bernette DECO 650 RB Embroidery Machine: Looking for a hard working but easy to use embroidery machine? From Bernina Sewing Machines comes this elegant model that features 60 built in designs, high-tech LCD touch screen, auto thread trimming, auto centering. Has three font styles and sizes with 90 degree rotation of designs. And remember, Bernina has hundreds of additional design options in the Bernina library! This embroidery machine is quality at a great price.

Bernina Bernette H70 Computerized Sewing Machine: Here is a value priced sewing machine that is packed with features normally found on higher priced models. An LCD display allows the user to see the stitch width, length and number and suggested presser foot. Other great features include auto threader, stitch length and width adjustment buttons, pattern selection, 7 one step buttonholes and thread cutter and much more. Very easy to use, this model will stitch at 800 per minute if needed and will sew through heavy fabrics with ease. Easy maintenance makes this a top seller.

Bernina Bernette 65 Sewing Machine: From Bernina Sewing Machines comes this basic model that is loaded with useful features and is perfect for the home user needing a dependable sewing machine to handle any sewing project. Four standard presser feet, 7mm stitch width, 15 different stitch patterns including a quilt stitch, bobbin and needle thread cutters, one step buttonhole, electronic foot control and auto needle threader. This quiet, smooth running machine is very easy to understand. If you are looking for a solid well built sewing machine and don’t need the LCD screen, this model is perfect. A real workhorse at a fantastic price.

Bernina 830 Sewing And Embroidery System: Incredible features never seen before puts this model on top of the mountain. Embroidery speeds up to 1,000 spm is the fastest anywhere and with a huge 7 inch touch screen you are always in complete control. Gigantic bobbin holds 40 per cent more thread, auto-threading, drag and drop technology, auto presser foot lift, pressure adjustment, thread cutter, digital clock (with alarm), easy to use buttons for different functions, the list goes on and on. This machine is for the serious user who seeks and demands the very best in sewing and embroidery equipment, and rest assured, the Bernina Sewing Machine company delivers with this series.

Looking for information on sewing machine cabinets?

Here you will be able to find suppliers and information on all types of sewing machine cabinets in all styles and for all budgets.

Today’s sewing machine cabinets come in a range of styles and models to choose from.

Here are the editor’s top picks after reviewing many different sewing machine cabinets. From the latest technology and value, these are sure to give you the right cabinet for your specific needs.

Arrow Cherry Embroidery Machine Airlift Credenza: This beautiful cherry cabinet is spacious and elegant, not to mention comfortable. Allows for stress free sewing with a unique EZ-lift air mechanism that allows sewing at any height. Other features include full cabinet doors for concealment, lots of inside storage, locking castors. This cabinet is designed to hold sewing machines up to 45 lbs. and is also a nice piece of furniture that looks great in any room! Very durable and easy to assemble.

Regal Sewing Machine Cabinet And Cutting Table: Tough and durable describes this white or oak finished cabinet that looks sharp and doubles as a desk. Scratch resistant finish, large cutout to handle larger machines, this cabinet has over 16 square feet of work area. Very sturdy with elevated sewing height, this reasonably priced sewing machine cabinet is a great addition to any sewing area.

Regal R35 Space Saver Sewing Machine Cabinet: Are you in a work area with limited space? Then this great looking cabinet is perfect! This cabinet doubles in size when opened but still conserves work space and gives you plenty of room to sew. Available in birch, oak or white finish this cabinet is scratch resistant, sturdy and has room for all your sewing supplies in notion bins on the door. Easily move the sewing machine from freearm to storage with the air-lift touch release. Comes assembled at purchase.

Arrow Compact Sewing Machine Cabinet: For the value minded who wants a sewing machine cabinet at a great price this model might be the one for you. Versatile and durable, this no frills cabinet fits in about anywhere space is a consideration. Black finish with wood grain laminates gives it a sharp look. Has two trays and two thread supply spindles on the door for your sewing storage needs. Nice sewing machine cabinet at the right price.

Horn Model 5000 Multi Lift Sewing Table: Not a cabinet per se, but a very useful and practical work station to meet your sewing needs. White and trimmed in oak, this table has dual electric legs for very easy height adjustment, airlift touch release to lower your machine, large working table and even a drink holder to eliminate spills. Assembled and ready to go. Power strip included.

Glossary: Sewing Machine Parts and Accessories

• Adaptors
• Belts
• Bobbin Case Parts
• Bobbin Cases
• Bobbin Covers
• Bobbin Winder Parts
• Bobbin Winders
• Bobbins
• Bulbs
• Buttonhole Attachments -Household
• Buttonhole Cutters
• Carbon Brushes
• Check Springs
• Clutch Assembly
• Commercial Sewing Machine Needles
• Control Dials/Knobs/Levers
• Cords
• Covers
• Cut & Sew Attachments
• Electrical Accessories
• Embroidery Hoops
• Even Feed Attachments
• Extension Tables
• Feed Dogs
• Feed Mechanism Components
• Foot Control Accessories
• Foot Control Parts
• Foot Controls
• Gauges
• Gears
• Hand Wheel Parts
• Hand Wheels
• Handles
• Hemmer Feet
• Hooks
• Instruction Books
• Knives- Household Sergers
• Lights & Light Parts
• Lint Brushes
• Looper Drive Components
• Loopers- Household Sergers
• Loopers -Household Sergers
• Lower Knives- Household Sergers
• Machine Head & Cover Components
• Main Shaft Parts
• Miscellaneous
• Miscellaneous Spool Pin Parts
• Motor Parts
• Motors
• Motors -Household Sergers
• Mounting Kits
• Needle Bar & Presser Foot Components
• Needle Bars
• Needle Clamp Gibs
• Needle Clamp Screws
• Needle Clamps
• Needle Plate Parts
• Needle Plate Screws
• Needle Plates
• Needle Plates -Household Sergers
• Needle Threaders
• Needles- Household Machines
• Plates
• Portable Case Parts
• Portable Cases
• Portable Upholstery Machine Parts & Accessories
• Position Brackets
• Position Fingers
• Presser Bar Lifters
• Presser Bar Springs
• Presser Bars
• Presser Feet -Household
• Printed Circuit Boards
• Pulleys/Parts
• Race Parts
• Rufflers
• Screws
• Seam Gauges/Guides
• Serger Accessories -Household Sergers
• Serger Feet -Household
• Serger Feet -Household Sergers
• Serger Needles -Household Sergers
• Serger Parts -Household Sergers
• Serger Screws -Household Sergers
• Sew Steady Portable Tables
• Shaft Washers
• Shanks
• Side Cutters
• Singer Platinum Collection
• Slide Plate Spring Screws
• Slide Plate Springs
• Slide Plates
• Snap-matic Feet
• Spool Holders
• Spool Pins
• Springs
• Switches
• Take-Up Cranks
• Take-Ups
• Tension Parts
• Tensions Complete
• Thread Guides
• Thread Pull Offs
• Thread Tension Components
• Threaders
• Throat Plates
• Tools
• Tweezers
• Zig Zag Attachments

Adaptors

An adaptor allows a user to interchange various types of feet without using a screw driver to remove the foot presently on the machine. It makes changing feet easier. It also allows non-brand feet to be used on any brand machine.

There are several varieties of adaptors. To determine which to use, one would need to know the size or description of the feet each individual machine would use.
For Example:

• Short Shank
• High Shank
• Slant Shank
• Superhigh Shank and Application

Adaptors may also be called shanks or ankles. Instead of an adaptor, you might want to use shanks permanently attached to each individual foot.
For example:

• straight stitch foot (hinged)
• zig zag foot (hinged)
• Straight stitch foot (Solid)
• Zig zag foot (solid)

Aerosols

Various chemicals to clean, lubricate, degrease, derust and/or polish a sewing machine, vacuum cleaner, or other appliance.

Belts

Belts are used to drive sewing machines, vacuums, and other appliances. Belts provide a link between motors and driveshafts. Belts are also available for timing a sewing machine. Each machine requires its own belts. The model umber is necessary to order.

Bobbin Case Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on bobbin cases. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Bobbin Cases

A bobbin case holds the bobbin and usually has some mechanism to control the tension of the thread as it pulls off the bobbin.

Each machine has a specific bobbin case. The customer should match the model number and name of machine to determine which case must be used.

Bobbins

The bobbin is used to hold the bottom thread and is necessary for the machine to sew. Every machine has a specific bobbin, based on make, model and name.
The bobbin is also known as the shuttle or the lower thread. In some cases, prewound bobbins are available.

Bobbin Winders

Devices that wind bobbins. Model number and name necessary to order.

Bulbs

Provide light to sewing bed. Bulbs come with various bases, shapes and sizes. Model number and name necessary for order.

Buttonhole Attachments

Optional attachment for the sewing machine ti measure and sew buttonholes. Model and name necessary to order.

Carbon Brushes

Parts used in an electric motor to provide contact to positive and negative poles.

Cleaners and Dusters

Various chemicals and tools used to clean and service a sewing machine.

Control Dials – Knobs – Levers

Cosmetic parts on a sweing machine used to adjust stitches.
For example:

• Zig Zag Lever – controls width of decorative stitches
• Stitch length arm/dial – controls length of stitch
• Pattern selector knob – controls selection of desired patterns.

Cords

Provides electric power to appliance. Model number and name necessary to order.
Cut and Sew Attachments
A cut and sew attachment is used for mock serging.
The customer should match the model number and name of machine to determine which case must be used.
The cut and sew attachment is also known as a serge device, or a cutting device.

Dust Covers

Protective covers for sewing machines.

Electrical Accessories

Parts used to provide electrical connection to sewing machine.
(Examples include lead cords, foot controls, foot control cords, light bulbs, light fixures.)

Even-feed Attachments

The even-feed attachment allows for even seams, matching plaids, and eliminates puckering, even when several layers of fabric are being sewn.

Feed Dogs

Part located under the needle plate. Teeth used to move material.

Foot Control Accessories

Friction pads used under foot control to prevent it from sliding.

Foot Control Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on foot controls. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Foot Control

A device used with the foot to control sewing machine speed.

Gear Saver

Substance used to lubricate gears to prevent wear.

Hand Wheel Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on hand wheels. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Hand wheel

Wheel located on right side fo machine used to manually move needle up and down.

Hook

The hook picks thread off the needle to create a stitch. Also called a shuttle.

Household Machine Needles

Various brands of needles available in different systems and sizes. The most common needle used in household machines is 15 x 1 size 11-14-16.

Some machines use different system needles, so when ordering it is wise to include brand and model number and description of material to be sewn.

Knives

Knives are used on sergers only. they allow material to be cut to size to match the overlock (overcast) stitch. They make clean edges. The appropriate knife can be determined if the model number and brand are known. Knives are also known as cutters or blades.

Lint Brushes

Small brush used to remove lint and debris from sewing machines.

Loopers

The appropriate looper can be determined if the model number and brand are known. Loopers are not known by any other name.

Metal Conditioner

Chemical used to prepare and extend life of metal parts in sewing machine.

Motors

Provides electrical movement for sewing machines.

Motor Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on motors. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Needle Clamps

Device that holds the needle in the needle bar.

Needle Clamp Screws

Screws in the needle clamp. Holds needle in place. Model number and brand needed to order.

Needle Clamp Gib

Small wedge-like part that presses on needle to hold in place. Model number and brand needed to order.

Needle Storage

Container to store needles.

Oil/Lubricant

Liquid oil and solid grease used to lubricate sewing machines.

Portable Case

Plastic or leather case to transport and protect sewing machine.

Position Brackets

Parts used to position bobbin case in sewing machines.

Position Fingers

parts used to position bobbin case in sewing machines.

Presser Foot

A pressure foot holds the fabric down and steady while the fabric is stitched. Pressure feet are used for several different purposes.

• Zig-Zag Foot – allows space for needle to swing side-to-side to create a wide stitch.
• Hemmer Foot – Creates a 1/8″ rolled hem by rolling the edge of the fabric to be stitched in one motion.
• Zipper Foot – Allows a needle to be placed close to the metal teeth of the zipper without breaking needles.
  Presser feet have various names according to the sewers background, but are most commonly named for the purpose they accomplish.

Rufflers

Rufflers are used when a gathered or pleated look is the desired effect. Rufflers are also known as pleasters or gatherers. Ruffling and pleating can be done by hand, but it requires much patience and skill.

Screws

Screws are mostly used to replace damaged or lost screws. The right screw is determined by the location on the machine, use, etc.

Serger Feet

Serger feet perform the same function on sergers as presser feet perform on sewing machines.

Shanks

Same as Adaptors

Snap-maticfeet

Same as presser feet, they attach by means of a snap-on connection.

Quick Tip: Sewing Machine Tips and Tricks for Beginners

To minimize breakage of metallic thread while sewing or embroidering, remember to use a metallic needle, reduce your stitch speed, apply a few beads of Sewer’s Aid on the thread spool and, believe it or not, store your metallic threads in a ziplock freezer bag in your freezer. It really works!

Under stitching

Under stitching is one of the best sewing techniques to give your garment a professional finish. I use under stitching whenever possible on facings. After sewing facing onto a garment, the seams are graded and then under stitched.

Grading: A standard 5/8 seam allowance is sewn, then the seam allowance nearest the facing is trimmed away to approximately 1/4 inch. The remaining seam allowance is trimmed to approximately ½ inch.

The next step is to finger press both seam allowances toward the facing. Then, keeping all the seam allowances toward the facing, stitch 1/4 inch away from the seam on the right side of the facing through all three layers.

When ironing the finished seam, use steam and only gentle pressure if necessary. If the pattern calls for top-stitching, your seam is ready to go!

Another stitch to try is the triple zig-zag, or (serpentine stitch). On some fabrics, or pattern pieces, this stitch may make the finished garment lay flatter

Doing this extra step helps the facing roll naturally to the inside giving a much sharper and cleaner finished garment.

Specialty Needles

Needles are one of the most important and essential sewing tools. Using the proper needle for your embroidery project will ensure better quality stitching and a more professional end result. There are 3 specialty needles that are recommended for embroidery: Embroidery, metallic and top-stitch.

The embroidery and metallic needles have only been introduced to the market in the last 2-3 years, due to the growing number of embroidery machines on the market. These needles are designed for trouble free sewing on these machines. These needles have a very light “ballpoint”, a larger eye to accommodate heavy decorative threads and the front groove is deep to reduce skipped stitches. They are also made to withstand the higher temperatures produced by decorative threads as you are sewing. You will find that these needles are slightly thinner than the size 90/14 universal needle you are familiar with. You may also use these needles when sewing on both woven and stretch fabrics.

Names to look for in Embroidery and metallic needles: Schmetz™ Embroidery: has a red band at the base of the shank for easy identification. Available in an assorted size package of three 75/11 and two 90/14 needles or 5 pack of size 75/11. Use these needles when working with rayon threads. Look for the code H-E on the package to identify them when purchasing.

Schmetz Metallics™: designed with an elongated eye, a deep front grove and a longer scarf so you can sew iwth the metallic and flat-filament types of decorative threads, eliminating skipped and thread breakage. These needles are available in a size 80/12. Look for the code H-MET on the package to identify them when purchasing.

Lammertz Metafil™: this is also a size 80/12 needle that has been made from a specially treated alloy that withstands the higher temperatures generated by the synthetic and metallic threads. It has a long eye with a friction-reducing coating, resulting in reduced thread stripping.

It is important to note that as with all your sewing, you should change your needle often. Remember when embroidering that you are sewing through a layer of fabric, and one, two or more layers of stabilizer, plus the density of the threads, which will all tend to dull your needle faster. A good rule of thumb for changing your needle is when you change your bobbin, change your needle.

Top-stitch Needles: this is an extra sharp needle, with the eye twice as long and the front groove is deeper than the 90/14 universal needle. Because of the larger eye and deeper front groove, this needle will accommodate the rayon and metallic threads, even allowing you to thread two strands of thread through it. Since the long eye tends to make this needle somewhat fragile you may find more needle breakage when sewing heavier threads. These needles are available in size 70/10, 80/12 and 90/14. Look for code N on the package to identify them when purchasing.

More Polar Fleece Adventures

Just when you thought you had enough books on polar fleece–here comes More Polar Fleece Adventures, by Nancy Cornwell. This isn’t just another book with the same old polar fleece projects. Nancy Cornwell has introduced several “new Fleece” techniques to add unique embellishments to everything from jackets, to sunglasses holders, to golf club covers.

Many of the techniques are old time friends in the heirloom sewing tradition. One of my favorite techniques is cutwork on fleece. There are suggestions on finding a design, or use the templates in the book. Other techniques include
pintucks with a double needle, decorative stitch sculpturing, texturizing with underlay stitches, and applique on fleece.

In addition to these new techniques to embellish your next polar fleece project, there is a full chapter on buttonholes and sport snaps, and finishing touches. If you want a special look try Fleece Welt or Ultra Suede Backwards Welt Buttonholes–they add a beautiful designer touch to your garment. If you’re not happy with the way your basic buttonholes have been coming out, Nancy has several tips to sew a perfect buttonhole, or try a Self Fabric “Interfaced” Buttonhole.

If you’re looking for a special finishing touch to make your garment extra special, try one of Nancy’s stylish zipper treatments of edge finishes. Whether you are a polar fleece expert, or just beginning, More Polar Fleece Adventures has a refreshing new twist. You will be sure to find the perfect techniques to make your next project extra special.

New User-Friendly Interfacing

Palmer/Pletsch introduces a new line of fusible interfacings that can be used to give added body to garments when sewing. Fusibles were first developed in 1968, at the time Pati Palmer was an educator for the Armo Interfacing Company. Pati called the first fusibles, bake-ons. “You’d iron them on and then they’d bubble and fall off,” says Palmer. Over the years they improved dramatically and fusing agents were applied to woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and knits. The latest and best for general use are the new weft interfacings. These are fabrics that are knitted with the addition of a yam woven into them along the crosswise or “weft” direction. They have the softness of a knit, yet the stability of a woven.

In 1989, Pati, in keeping up her contacts with Armo, a division of Crown Textiles, developed a line of interfacings for The McCall Pattern Company in Australia. The line became very successful. At that time, there was no need for her to do this in the U.S. Then, in 1995, Crown Textiles, the premier interfacing manufacturer in the U.S. filed chapter 11 and was sold. Confusion followed. Pati got together with longtime associate and sewing expert, Marta Alto, and began to research for interfacings that would meet their goals. The goals and how they solved them with their new line of Perfect Fuse tm interfacings; are as follows:

Simplification. There are so many interfacing choices that the customer has no idea what to use where. Therefore, they narrowed the choices to 4 that will solve nearly every interfacing need.
See the difference. Often, you can’t tell the difference visually between one interfacing and another. They made sure there is a distinct visual difference between each interfacing in their line. Even the names signify. the differences-Perfect Fuse Sheer, Light, Medium, and Tailor.

Reasonable prices. Prices on interfacings vary greatly. Often you get what you pay for. The team went for the best product, not the best price, yet the new line is reasonably priced and double the width of other products. Based on the wider width, the interfacings are generally less per yard than competitor’s narrower products. The packaging, however, is labor intensive, so in order to keep the prices down for the consumer, there will be no distributor pricing. Because of this, the interfacings will most likely only be found in independent fabric stores.

A new video called Perfect Fusing, The Latest Solutions to Professional Garment Shaping is now available. In it, Marta Alto discusses different interfacings and there uses, including other brands than Perfect Fuse. She also talks about the different uses for the Perfect Fuse brand which includes Perfect Fuse Sheer, Perfect Fuse Light, Perfect Fuse Medium, and Perfect Fuse Tailor. For example, Sheer and Light are similar in weight, so what are the different uses? Sheer provides crisper body. Use it in collars and cuffs. On some smooth fabrics, Light may show through, whereas Sheer won’t. However, Light fuses to textures better than Sheer. Designers use Light as an underlining in 3-ply silk crepe de chine jackets. It makes a great underlining in any jacket where a little extra body is needed. It’s open weave adds breathability. Keep Light in the bag as it can snag-another reason we sell it in a package. Tailor is wonderful in jacket fronts and on the under collar combined with Medium or Light on the upper collar and facing. Medium is ideal for Ultrasuede jackets.

The video also covers preshrinking, cutting, proper fusing, and garment care. Marta takes you through the entire process including showing many different types of garments and explaining what she used and why. She has lots of time-saving tips and advice for quality sewing.

Background:

Pati Palmer’s first job out of college was with Crown Textiles, one of the largest U.S. interfacing manufacturers. She tested the first fusible interfacing for them and has been on the leading edge ever since. Marta Alto has been using, testing, and teaching about fusible interfacings for 30 years. As a team, they saw a need and spent 4 years developing interfacings for their new line of Perfect Fuse Interfacing.

Good performance. Some interfacings bubble during laundering or abrade and pill. All of the new interfacings are wefts which do not pill or shred after several launderings. They add stability as well as softness. In-depth care and preshrinking instructions are given for each one.

Wider widths. Some garments have required narrow interfacings to be pieced. Their new interfacings are 60 and 66 inches wide, TWICE the-width of most other interfacings which are 22″ or 29.1″
Good instructions. Generic instructions, if any, are sold with interfacings today. Each of the new interfacings has its own instructions. In addition, each package includes well-researched and well-written general instructions for using fusibles.

Instant, no-wait purchasing. When you go to the deli and have the choice of waiting for your cheese to be cut or to pick up a package of the same cheese, time will be a factor in your choice. Pre-packaged interfacings mean you don’t have to wait for them to be cut. Perfect Fuse interfacings come in one or three yard packages. One yard of the wider width is plenty for most projects and you can store the unused portions in the plastic envelope. One yard of Tailor will do two jackets, depending on size and style. One yard of Sheer will be enough for several shirts.

Less confusion in your interfacing stash at home. Often, after we use an interfacing, we stack it on the shelf and 3 months later we can’t figure out what it is. The protective storage bag will keep the interfacing clean and the consumer will always know which interfacing is inside.

Quality. Consumers aren’t very confident in how interfacings will perform. Marta Alto and Pati Palmer tested hundreds of products over a 4-year period and spent 2 years writing, editing, and testing use and care instructions. Palmer/Pletsch is a name. recognized for quality.

Foolproof Fly Front Zipper

Here is an easy way for you to have a perfect fly front zipper application every time – and it only takes about ten minutes!

Finish each raw edge of pants fronts at the crotch seams and fly extensions with a serger or zig zag stitch. Use a 12″ zipper for this construction technique. The excess length will be cut off after applying the waistband.

With the right sides of the Pants Fronts together, baste down the center front of the zipper dot.

At the dot, change to a normal stitch length. Backstitch below the dot, and continue stitching crotch seam, stopping about 3″ from the end of the inseam. (VIEW A)
Press fly extensions to open.

With the wrong side of the Pants Front facing up, place the two front pieces and the left fly extensions to the left, leaving the right fly extension on its own. (VIEW B)

Lay the zipper face down on the right fly extension, so that the left edge of the zipper tape will butt up to the center seam. Place the zipper stop 1/4″ above the dot. Pin the right side of the zipper tape to the fly extension only. Stitch the right side of the zipper tape to the right fly extension. The stitching should be less than 1/4″ from the zipper teeth. (VIEW C)

Flip the Pants Fronts and the right fly extension to the right side, leaving the left fly extension exposed.

Push the zipper towards the left fly extension as much as possible and press. Pin the left side of the zipper tape to the left fly extension only. Stitch the zipper tape less than 1/4″ from the zipper teeth to the left fly extension. (VIEW D)

With the right side of the pants facing up on the ironing board, press the zipper and fly to the right of the pants.

Pin the fly front extensions to the pants and topstitch 1″ – 1 1/4″ from the center seam. Use a quilt bar guide for your machine to insure accuracy while topstitching. Be sure to mark where the zipper stop is to avoid hitting it with the needle. The topstitching should end near the dot (VIEW E)

Take out the center seam basting, and your zipper is finished! Wasn’t that easy?

To copy ready-to-wear, you may want to add bartacks. Use a zig zag stitch, with a width of 2.0 and a length of 0.3 (VIEW F)